Fashion designer Thabo Kopele believes individuality is more than a style statement; it is the driving force behind every personal look and his latest collection.
The 28-year-old designer, based between Johannesburg and Cape Town, founded his namesake label eight years ago and recently unveiled Bo Ausi Ba Skoon, a collection inspired by the distinctive ways South Africans express themselves through dress.
“Bo’ausi Baskoon, or Bo’abuti Baskoon, translates to ‘our clean sisters’ or ‘our clean brothers’,” he says. “The collection is inspired by individuality and personal style, playing with the juxtaposition of textures and proportions.”
Kopele unveiled the collection through The Jozi Collective, which opened its latest fashion pop-up to the creative industry in Kramerville, Sandton, earlier this month.
Under the theme “Home As We Know It”, the curation brought together Kopele alongside fellow designers Fikile Sokhulu, Nhlanhla Masemola, Thabo Khumalo, Oyama Gonintebe and Mmaphuti Movundlela into a meeting space of creative entrepreneurs whose work reflects the richness, craftsmanship and evolving language of contemporary SA fashion.
Far from being a newcomer in the local fashion landscape, The Jozi Collective has established itself as an important platform connecting independent designers with buyers, media and consumers while creating opportunities for local labels to grow and showcase their work.
“Right now, it’s such an interesting time where everyone is kind of finding their niche and finding a sweet spot within their personal style, and it’s so beautiful to just witness,” he says.
Kopele grew up in the Vaal, where he developed an early fascination with the local fashion subcultures that would go on to shape his creative identity and fashion journey.
“I grew up in a small town called Vanderbijlpark, but many of my clothing influences came from my cousins and friends that lived in the neighbouring townships of Sebokeng and Sharpeville,” he says.
Curious and creatively driven, Kopele’s fashion journey took shape in his late teens, when subcultures such as skhothane and hip-hop dominated the youth scene.
Inspired by the distinctive styles around him, he approached a family member to teach him how to sew.
“It was around late grade 10, and around the time when dashikis were in fashion, but I couldn’t find them anywhere. That’s when I went to a cousin from Sharpeville that worked in a clothing factory, and I asked her if I could come learn how to sew over the weekends.
“Although it would take me two weeks to sew a shirt, she gave me the freedom to kind of do my own thing and gain confidence behind the machine.”
Kopele pursued his fashion design studies at Stadio, following in the footsteps of celebrated alumni such as Rich Mnisi, Thebe Magugu and Wanda Lephoto.
“In 2017, I was doing my first year at Lisof (now Stadio), and this is just after Rich Mnisi and Wanda Lephoto had all graduated. My real influence in studying fashion came from people like Lukhanyo Mdingi, who had just shot this beautiful editorial with Travis Owen that had grey motifs and glitter with very chunky sweaters,” Kopele says.
“At the time it was something that I didn’t think was possible in SA, and it opened my eyes − I could see people that looked like me that did wonderful things and achieved remarkable feats in fashion.”
Before he could fully realise his fashion dreams, Kopele was expelled in his second year because he could no longer afford the tuition fees. Undeterred, he packed his bags and headed to the Mother City, determined to find another way forward in fashion.
“I went to Cape Town for a stint and started establishing myself on that side and learning about the fashion culture there. It was very impulsive. Not even my parents had known that. I took the risk of getting on a bus and just going to Cape Town, but I think that helped me,” he says.
“I came back and started my own brand and released my debut collection titled Pre-fall, which was featured in Between 10and5 magazine,” he says.
“By this time we thought that my time at Stadio was completely done and I wouldn’t go back, but after the feature I got a call back from the school, and they offered me a bursary to complete my studies. So, between 2019 and 2021, I got a second chance to complete my studies. This was also around the time when I was scouted by SA Fashion Week for the Scouting Menswear competition,” says Kopele.
Among Kopele’s biggest accomplishments is being selected for a forecasting mentorship programme with UK-based agency WGSN as well as having showcased a two-minute fashion film alongside his director friend, which received nods at various international film festivals.
Fast-forward to today, and Kopele is an established designer under The Jozi Collective, spearheaded by creative director and celebrity stylist Thobeka Mbane.
“In between all of this, I got introduced to The Jozi Collective and Thobeka, whom I’d interacted with since the beginning of my career. She knows me and how to creatively tell our narratives through the lens of style and design. I’ve been incredibly grateful to her,” he says.
Click here to join Sowetan’s WhatsApp channel and get the latest news delivered to you on the move
