Local chef lights the Flame at landmark Joburg hotel

What comes to mind when we think of the grand Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff?

The five-star luxury establishment, perched on a hill in the idyllic northern Johannesburg suburb of Westcliff, is renowned for its sunset views of the city’s skyline and immaculate grounds. It is undergoing a 360-degree renovation that will further catapult its premium legacy status.

Raising the bar of opulence on the dining front is the newly minted executive chef of Flame restaurant, Rudi Liebenberg.

The Melville native sees his appointment as his homecoming to the city he loves.

“I was recently working abroad in the Caribbean before I came back to SA,” he says. “My wife and I were looking to come back home, and when the opportunity came, I didn’t hesitate. Walking into the kitchen, I felt as though I was home and that I knew everyone.

“Beyond The Westcliff, the homecoming for me was to the city. There is something beautiful about Johannesburg. I know it sounds strange, and not many people will say that. It’s not so much the sense of place, but it’s a sense of its people – they are genuine.”

Liebenberg, who began cooking at 17, boasts an impressive 40-year culinary career, during which he went from a salad-making factory to the picturesque Mount Nelson Hotel in Cape Town. Along the way, he has represented SA at the Culinary Olympics and worked in the kitchens of heritage hotels around the world.

“Growing up, my mother’s cooking was the best,” Liebenberg says. “She was an accountant who worked long, late hours. She would phone me to get dinner started and say, ‘Tonight, you’re going to make bolognese’, and she’ll tell me what to do. Five minutes later, she’ll phone me back, asking ‘Have you done this?’ then phone me back again, and that is sort of how I learnt how to cook.

“For me, being in the kitchen is a therapeutic and quiet space, which is very good for me. After I had completed my culinary qualification at the Wits Hotel School, my mother refused to cook for me again.” 

The Westcliff’s renovations extend beyond the Flame restaurant kitchen to a reimagined 400-seat ballroom plus a destination lounge, including a lobby and bar. The refurbishment of the hotel’s lobby is scheduled to be completed in October, and the rooms will be done in phases.

“Guests can anticipate feeling spoiled. Food is supposed to be beautiful and taste good and to look like you want to eat it,” Liebenberg says. “When it comes to an elevated hospitality experience, it’s all in the details, from the door to when guests are seated. In the kitchen, it’s selecting food that comes from the right suppliers; everything is cooked to perfection and is served at the right temperatures that enhance African ingredients infused with international flair.”

Here is the recipe for one of Liebenberg’s favourite dishes:

Fire-roasted T-bone with bone marrow and chimichurri

Ingredients

For the steak

• 2 x 800g large T-bone beef fillets
• 4 x boat-shaped marrow bones
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper (or favourite braai spice)

For the chimichurri

• 1 cup tightly-packed fresh flat-leaf parsley; remove thick stems
• 3-4 garlic cloves (crushed)
• 3 tbsp fresh oregano leaves 
• 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tbsp red or white wine vinegar (balsamic also works)

• 1/2 tsp sea salt
• 1/8 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 1-2 fresh chillies (chopped)
• Juice of one lemon 

Method

• To prepare the chimichurri, blitz all the ingredients together until finely chopped, but not puréed. It should still have a bit of texture and bite. Taste and adjust seasoning. Set aside while you cook the steak.
• To make the T-bone and bone marrow, take the meat out of the fridge an hour before cooking so it warms to room temperature. Season the meat simply with sea salt and cracked black pepper. An excellent alternative is your favourite braai spice. Season the steak a little ahead of time so it settles in.
• Get a good, hot fire going.
• Place the steak over the coals and grill until a crust forms. Turn the meat over and repeat on the other side. Carefully turn the meat to stand on its side and render the fat slowly until it’s golden and crispy. Don’t rush this, as the fat is the best part of the steak fillet.
• Allow the steaks to rest for about 5-8 minutes before carving. Once rested, put them back on the grill briefly to warm through before serving.
• Ask your butcher to cut the bone marrow boats lengthwise. Season them lightly and place them on the braai.
• Let the marrow cook until it is soft and bubbling.
• To serve, carve away the loin and tenderloin meat from the bone of the steak. Place the pieces closely back to the bone on the plate for presentation. Scoop out the marrow from the bone and spoon over the steak.
• Finish with a generous drizzle of chimichurri.

Chef’s tip: T-bone is the best of all worlds: bone, soft tenderloin and fatty loin. Speak to your butcher and ask for a well-marbled, thick cut. To elevate the taste experience, ask for dry-aged fillet. It comes at a premium price, but the flavour is worth it.