Nonkosi “Noni” Vellem is breaking new ground in SA’s hospitality industry, and she’s determined to bring other women along with her.
The 45-year-old from Alice in the Eastern Cape is the newly appointed executive chef at Sun International’s Time Square Hotel in Menlyn, Pretoria, becoming the first woman to hold the position there.
She takes over from the highly experienced Adrian Vaughan, whose mentorship and confidence helped prepare her for the demanding role.
“I’m not here to fill his place, but I am here to do my part,” Vellem says boldly. “At first, it was scary, but I had Adrian and the hotel’s support. I told myself that if I don’t do this, the other women I’m working with won’t have the confidence to step up for future job openings. By stepping up, I’m opening a job opportunity or a promotion for someone else.”
Six months into the role, Vellem’s distinct leadership style is already taking shape: bold, hands-on mentorship. She assembled a largely female kitchen brigade, reflecting her commitment to uplifting women in the male-dominated industry.
“In my team, I have five women and two men because I’m the person who wants to empower and uplift women. I know the men are there, but my focus is the women,” she says.
“With the women, I train, encourage and support them because I’ve walked this journey and I know what it takes. Most of the members on my team are managers, so what I teach, they can then impart to their teams.”
Vellem started working as a cleaner at Table Bay Hotel in Cape Town, but her interest in the culinary arts was sparked by the better pay chefs got.
“I grew up in Alice with my grandparents from my father’s side. My grandmother was the best at baking, and I inherited that skill from her,” she says. “After school, I did not continue with my studies, as my grandparents could not send us all to universities, so I began working for a cleaning agency.
“When I started there [Table Bay Hotel], and I was in the kitchen, that’s where the love started for pastry. I shocked myself because I didn’t know that I could do this or that,” Vellem says.
“I left housekeeping and cleaning to work in the kitchen full-time. The executive chef took notice and said that I’ve got a skill, that I love what I am doing and that they would send me to school to study pastry.”
She enrolled at the South African Chef Academy and received a diploma in pastry. “The hotel group employed me as their full-time permanent commis chef in the kitchen. From there, I don’t want to lie, I’ve never stopped,” she says.
Vellem climbed the culinary ranks in the kitchens of various luxury hotels in Cape Town until her former Table Bay Hotel colleague invited her to move with him to launch a new restaurant in Johannesburg in 2012.
Below, Vellem shares an elevated version of her favourite childhood dish of cabbage and potatoes, perfect for the chilly early autumn weather.
Lamb shank served with colcannon mash
Ingredients
For the dry rub:
- 1 tsp paprika
- 3 tsp salt
- 1 tsp ground black pepper
- 4 tsp barbecue spice
For the lamb shanks:
- 8 lamb shanks
- 5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
- 10 shallots or 2-3 small onions, chopped
- 3 celery ribs, chopped
- 3 large carrots, peeled and cut into large pieces
- 2 cups (500ml) red wine
- 4 cups (1 litre) broth
- 2 cans of peeled tomatoes
- 4 sprigs of fresh thyme
- 2 sprigs of fresh rosemary
For the colcannon mash:
- 1kg baby potatoes
- 300g Chinese cabbage
- 100g kale
- 100g butter
- Salt and pepper to taste
Method
- Preheat oven to 180 degrees.
- Mix the spices in a small bowl.
- Pat the lamb shanks dry with a paper towel and season with the spice mix on all sides.
- In a large oven pot, heat olive oil over medium-high heat.
- Once heated, brown the lamb shanks on all sides for about 10 minutes. Transfer them to a large tray or bowl to rest.
- Carefully dispose of excess fat in a separate heat-safe bowl and return the pot to the heat.
- Add the onions or shallots, celery and carrots and sauté for 5-10 minutes on medium-high or until the vegetables have gained a deep, rich colour.
- Add the broth, chopped tomatoes, thyme, and rosemary to the sautéed vegetables.
- Season with a little salt and pepper.
- Return the lamb shanks to the pot with the vegetables and broth and boil for 10 minutes, then turn off the heat.
- Cover the pot and transfer it to the heated oven.
- Cook in the oven for 2½ hours, checking periodically in case you need to add a little more liquid.
- Serve and enjoy.
