Jewellery is probably on many people’s minds as Valentine’s Day on February 14 is nearly upon us. Who doesn’t like a bit of sparkle?
Jewellery makes up so many of the important occasions in one’s life, and rarely do we take a look at the people who produce these pieces that can become family heirlooms. People like Lungile Xhwantini who is production manager and the master goldsmith at the Platinum Incubator and won the first prize in 2020 at the PlatAfrica jewellery design and manufacturing competition.
“In the Platinum Incubator I oversee the whole production line in terms of manufacturing and especially when it comes to SMME development. The Platinum Incubator is all about incubating small businesses within the platinum industry. So, we advocate in beneficiating them in especially jewellery manufacturing, so we try by all means to help them to eventually stand alone, and access markets easily,” explains Xhwantini. He also is in charge of the trainees that intern at the incubator, and he teaches them the ins and outs of the trade. He is also a product of the Platinum Incubator.
The Bloemfontein-born Xhwantini fell in love with jewellery design after exploring his options at a FET college; he was drawn to graphic design as well but found his passion in jewellery design.
“I figured since I was quite good with my hands and had a creative flair, I could manifest all of that [within] the jewellery industry,” he says.
When asked what inspired his designs he cited that his design flair was influenced by culture, nature, different life scenarios, a lot of research and sometimes icons. In fact his winning PlatAfrica design called Sacred Shackle was partially inspired by Black Coffee, the theme for the competition was “Men of Platinum”, and he’s been trying to connect with the music mogul to show him the piece.
“I thought Black Coffee would be fitting for the design brief because he has become a world icon despite [our country’s problematic history, which disadvantaged black people and his own personal battles which he preserved through to become an iconic figure in the music scene].”
The jewellery has some religious patterns as part of the design, hence the sacred in the name. The piece is essentially about how as a people we have surpassed our terrible past, removed our shackles and have entered a better era.
One of the prizes for winning the PlatAfrica competition is a trip to India to experience what the country has to offer in terms of their jewellery production. Due to the onset of the global coronavirus pandemic he was unable to go in 2020 but finally managed the trip this year. It was the first time he visited that country.
“It was quite interesting to see and find out that there were quite different mediums and styles that I can infuse with my way of production. It was very educational in terms of having to learn all of that, of how the other world sees manufacturing and how they produce jewellery.”
He said he noticed that in India most of their jewellery was made from gold, whereas in SA platinum reigns supreme. Fresh from the tour, the 31-year-old states that 2023 is the year for men’s jewellery; it goes without saying of course that the metal of choice will be platinum.
“I would like to encourage the youth to not give up [on their jewellery manufacturing dreams] maybe look into the industry and also let’s preserve and showcase our talents. I believe there’s a lot of talent out there… Let’s take on the world and show them what we can do as South Africans.”
Incubators are essential in most industries; at the ShopJewellex hosted at Monte Casino in December of 2022, there was a display stand from another incubator for the jewellery sector, the Ekurhuleni Jewellery Project. This incubator provides mentorship, sponsorship, training and access to the market for SMMEs in the jewellery sector.
People like Kamogelo Phago from Johannesburg south, who is the founder and manufacturer of a brand called Luxity Fine Jewellery, are some of the people that have benefitted from the incubator.
“We manufacture fine and commercial jewellery inspired by suspension bridges and architecture, and we are sponsored by the Ekurhuleni Jewellery Project and Rand Refinery,” she explained.
The incubator has a silver mentorship competition that runs for a year, with first runner up, second runner up and first place positions. The winner becomes an ambassador of Rand Refinery and wins a trip. Winners will be announced in March of 2023.
At the time of the show, Phago had been running her business with her business partner, Isaac Khoza, for eight months.
“We’re fresh from school, at school they teach you the manufacturing side of things and at the [incubator] they teach you the business side of the industry. They have workshops, like business workshops, it helps a lot,” said Khoza.
dlomol@sowetan.co.za
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